Posts Tagged With: Clare

Is it really six months??

Posted on December 2, 2014 by singersong

I have now been in Ireland over six months.

I was going to write some profound piece about my time here and reflect on my experiences since I arrived at Dublin Airport with my fiddle on back in mid-May. I was going to write about the fact that I have played music at an organised session every night since I have been here, about the fact that I have played in at least 400 sessions possibly as many as 500, about the fact that I have attended over twenty Festivals and Summer Schools, about the fact that I have played music in Clare, Sligo, Lietrim, Mayo, Offaly, Galway, Tipperary, Cork, Dublin and Armagh, about the fact that I have had lessons from Tola Custy, Siobhan Peoples, Maurice Lennon, Yvonne Kane, Eileen O’Brien, Martin Hayes, Yvonne Casey, James Kelly, Liam O’Connor and many others, about the many ‘famous’ musicians I have played with and met, about the wonderful places I have visited in Clare and beyond, about my house by the sea, about….. But no. I won’t even mention those things.

Instead I just want to talk about the music over the last three nights. Firstly at PJ Kelly’s Bar in Ennis on Saturday night, then at Pepper’s in Feakle on Sunday, at home on Monday afternoon and at Fitz’s Bar in Hotel Doolin that evening. Because these three nights say everything about why I am here and why I can’t see myself returning to Australia for the foreseeable future.

Saturday night had kicked off with a CD launch upstairs at the Old Ground. Dymphna O‘Sullivan, wonderful Ennis based concertina player had gathered together an eclectic collection of musicians who entertained a large crowd for well over two hours. There was great variety with visiting musicians including Joe Carey from Mayo and members of the Droney family, and a whistler (the ‘put-your-lips-together-and-blow’ type of whistler), along with elite players from Clare including Eoin O’Neill, Eileen O’Brien, Joan Hanranhan, Eileen Cotter and many others. There was dancing including sean nos, step dancing and a set to finish it off. While I love listening to Irish music in the concert situation it always leaves me wanting more and the desire to play becomes overpowering. So the word was that some of the musicians would be heading down to Kelly’s. This is my regular Saturday session as I love the tinge of Tulla provided by regulars Andrew MacNamara, Brid O’Gorman and Joan Hanrahan.

I arrived at 11:00 to an already packed bar. I knew half the musicians there, which was great as I felt welcomed but it didn’t help get a seat! I was lucky to get a stool just outside the circle. They were already in full swing so I wasted no time in getting the fiddle out. Plenty of tunes I knew and at a good steady pace – just the way I like it! Though as the Guinness flowed of course the music got faster. More musicians arrived as the CD launch wound down and there were soon 14 musicians playing. Other well-known musicians arrived but could not get a seat. Unfazed, they were happy to stand at the bar and listen. And that’s what makes nights such as these special. Egos are put to one side. It’s all about the music and the craic. It’s when the realities of being a working musician get subsumed by the sheer pleasure of making music and listening to music and being with others who are making music. The music lifts off the page or from out of the cd cover and becomes real.

This was indeed one of those nights. The music might not have always been to everyone’s taste with four accordions but it’s hard to imagine how you could have a better time in a pub. There was impromptu dancing, some gorgeous singing, waltzes and of course the Guinness and the cider. The music didn’t even stop when an older guy, who I had noticed earlier, head drooped on his chest sleeping at the bar, fell off his stool, crashing to the floor among the musicians. It was in the middle of a haunting air being played on the accordion and while a few concerned punters went to his aid the tune carried on and by the time the air had changed to a reel the fellow was back on his stool and his coke refilled (yes the tap had been turned off for him) as if nothing had happened.

As a couple of musicians drifted away I took a seat near the fire in the thick of it relishing my privileged position. I could not wipe the smile off my face and I observed that sense of joy in all the players and I should say the listeners. The music and craic went until 2 am by which time the increasingly panicky publican was desperately trying to clear the bar for fear the Gardaí might pay a visit.

This experience only happened to me because I live here. A visitor might stumble on this session if he or she is lucky, but would they feel part of it, or would they just be an observer. This is a dilemma for those irregular visitors. Sure you can find great sessions in Festivals but it is somehow different. I was the only foreigner here. In a Festival situation the session might be dominated by visitors . Not that that is necessarily a bad thing but it does change the tone and quality. This was ‘real’. This was Irish people enjoying their music and tradition for themselves. This was as close to ‘authentic’ as I can imagine a Session in 21st Century Ireland could be. I arrived home at 3am satisfied and fulfilled.

A friend had told me there was to be music the next day from 4pm at Pepper’s Bar in Feakle. This was to celebrate the 40th year of management by Gary Pepper. For those who don’t know, Peppers is one of the iconic venues for East Clare music. A favourite haunt for Martin Hayes and his father PJ it is still a great place for the craic. Where better than to celebrate my 200th continuous night (sorry, I said I wasn’t going to mention it) than here. And what a fabulous night it was. It was like being back at the Feakle Festival, one of the summer’s great events, but without the crowds. The music was in full swing when I arrived at 4pm being led by Pat O’Connor, and Padraig MacDonncha. They were joined later in the evening by Andrew MacNamara, Eileen O’Brien and Deidre McSherry. When I left exhausted at 12pm after eight hours of pretty much continuous playing and surviving on bar snacks, they were still at it. There’s not much more to say except that it was a privilege to be there. I never got home that night though as I realised too late that I didn’t have enough petrol to drive home to Caherush and when I got to Ennis at 1am could not find an open garage. I shouldn’t have been surprised by this but with my car computer telling me I had 8 km left in the tank I knocked on Graham’s door at Kilnamona. It was 3.30am and a few whiskeys later that I finally got to bed. Thanks mate!

Not long after I eventually got home on Monday I was disturbed by a knock on the door. Disturbed is not the right word as it was John Joe Tuttle, long time resident and fiddler from Crosses of Anagh just outside Miltown Malbay. I had played with him occasionally at Friels in Miltown and had invited him to call in. Here he was taking me up on this and we settled down in front of the fire with a cup of tea (he did refuse my offer of a whiskey) for a couple of hours of wonderful tunes and reminiscences. John Joe knew PJ Talty, whose house we were in, as well as Willie Clancy and Paddy Canny and everyone else since. He had played with them in kitchens, in Ceili Bands and from the late 50s in pubs. It was an absolute treat for me as he shared tunes he learnt from his early days in West Clare to ones he had learnt just this week. He had a particular liking for the tunes of Sean Ryan and said they were very popular in those days. I then joined him for a few tunes which was the icing on a wonderful afternoon.

That night I headed to Hotel Doolin for the regular Monday session. This session is led by Eoin O’Neill, Quentin Cooper, Adam Shapiro and Jon O’Connell. In the short while it has been going it has become the session in Doolin and for that matter in the whole of West Clare. The pub is always full, with locals and visitors alike and attracts wonderful musicians such as Conor Byrne, Luka Bloom and Noirin Lynch. What sets this session apart is that anything goes. Of course it is rooted in trad and you will get driving reels and haunting songs but you will also get some blues, Bob Dylan, Bob Marley or something from the Balkans. Every night is different.

When I walked in there was a buzz already and that was before the music had even started. There was standing room only and a sense of eager anticipation. From the first tune the night did not disappoint. There was wild applause after each number and reverential silence for the songs. Wonderful singers from the floor and the pace didn’t let up until after midnight.

This was not just a show for the tourists. It felt like the real thing. The musicians gave their all and the punters lapped it up. This is the picture of Ireland that visitors take away and talk about and why they come back year after year to Doolin. Kayla and Emily from Canada, Emma and Becca from Melbourne and Ro from Adelaide and the many others I didn’t meet who were here for one or two nights went away with the experience of a lifetime.

So these three nights say everything about why I came here.

The Ireland I have discovered is surprisingly close to the romantic vision that I came here with. Of course I have had issues, particularly with bureaucracy and rules and regulations, but probably no more than a foreigner would have anywhere else in the world, but the folks of Clare are friendly and welcoming. I have met a host of wonderful people and have been made to feel part of this community, when I was at Kilnamona and now at Caherush. Maybe it is the same all over Ireland I can’t say but when I come back from my travels it is like coming home.

I would like to thank all the musicians and lovers of music and dancing who have made my first six months in Ireland so special. I can’t possibly name everyone but I should single out the people I play with at the regular sessions around Clare – in Ennis, Ennistymon, Miltown, Lahinch, Doolin, Feakle and beyond. People who put up with my musical inadequacies and make me feel welcome. People whose playing from the heart keeps me grounded and ensures that it will be a long time before I have ‘delusions of competence’ but who at the same time inspire me to keep going. To the many people with whom I have shared a Guinness and a story and to the many, many friends I have made from Holland, Belgium, Germany, France, Sweden, Spain, Canada, Switzerland, Japan, the US, Britain and wherever who share this passion for Irish Music and the Irish experience.

I don’t regret for a moment my decision to base myself in Clare as the words of Christy Moore ring constantly in my ears – “Flutes and fiddles everywhere, If it’s music you want you should go to Clare”.

Thanks

Evening fog. The road to Feakle

Eileen O’Brien, Pepper’s Feakle

Deidre McSherry. Pepper’s Feakle

Andrew MacNamara, Padraig Mac Donncha. Peppers Feakle

Peppers Feakle

Andrew MacNamara, Pat O’Connor, Padraigh MacDonncha

Happy Birthday Eileen. Peppers Feakle

Festive fiddle

Peppers Feakle

Enjoying the craic. Peppers Feakle

John Joe Tuttle. At my house in Caherush. December 2014

Kayla and Emily visiting from Canada. Fitz’s Bar Doolin

Conor Byrne. Fitz’s Bar Doolin

Quentin Cooper, Adam Shapiro, Eoin O’Neill. Fitz’s Bar Doolin

Luka Bloom. Fitz’s Bar

Elaine Doonan, Jon O’ Connell. Fitz’s Bar

Sign Fitz’s Bar Doolin

Categories: My Journey | Tags: Clare, Doolin, Ennis, Feakle, Festival, Hotel Doolin, Ireland, Irish music, music, Peppers Feakle, photography, Sessions, traditional music, travel | 9 Comments

Road Bowls Armagh

Posted on November 24, 2014 by singersong

During my recent visit to the Armagh Piping Festival I went for a drive through the pretty countryside around Armagh. As I noted elsewhere it is very “English” and very ordered, in contrast to the wildness of Clare, and the last vestiges of Autumn gave it a colourful tinge that would soon disappear. About ten kilometres west of Armagh, I was privileged to encounter a game of road bowls (or ‘long bullets’ as it is also known in Armagh). This involves two players who project a steel ball about the size of an orange along a predefined course on public roads with the aim of reaching the finish line in the fewest throws. A brilliant concept when you think about it, except for the obvious hazards. A crowd of participants (all men) follow the progress. Some of these men seem to have a specific role with one advising the thrower and another standing with his legs apart and arms up in the air to show the best throwing line. Others are charged with finding the ball when it leaves the road and disappears into the long grass with one carrying a 7 iron for this purpose. The end point of the throw (which is where the ball comes to rest, not as you would expect where it leaves the road) is marked with a pile of grass placed on the road and this becomes the next throwing point. There is much barracking and I was told there was significant betting though I saw no evidence of this. The throwing requires a degree of athleticism and great distances are achieved. An athleticism not however displayed in the assembled crowd, except maybe in dodging the speeding cannonball at the last minute – but nevertheless what a great excuse for a Sunday stroll.

All the participants seemed comfortable with the obvious dangers inherent in a crowd of twenty men standing in the middle of a narrow twisting and hilly Irish road. There seemed however to be a tacit understanding between drivers and pedestrians and this was entirely consistent with the great other Irish leisure activities that I have observed all over the country, such as stopping your car in the middle of the road for a conversation oblivious to the waiting traffic or standing in the doorway of a pub to have a cigarette ensuring no one can get in or out, or parking on double yellow lines (which seems to be ok if you put on your hazard lights). Don’t you love it?

One man stopped to tell me that I shouldn’t park where I had as the Guards will book me. I looked again and sure enough there was a tiny No Parking sign in the lane where I had stopped. I was thoroughly bemused that I might get booked for parking miles from anywhere while the law turned a blind eye to the obvious hazard of using a public roadway for a sporting event.

I felt lucky to have witnessed this. An event that I have only seen in documentaries and to have experienced this insight into an activity that dates back to a very different country in the 17^th Century. Ireland continues to surprise and enthral me.

Categories: Real Ireland | Tags: Armagh, bowls, Clare, Festival, Ireland, Irish music, Northern Ireland, photography, road bowls, travel | 1 Comment

William Kennedy Piping Festival Armagh

Posted on November 19, 2014 by singersong

The sounds of the Ennis Trad 21 had hardly faded away and I found myself heading to Northern Ireland for the 21st William Kennedy Piping Festival. Piping you say? Well it wasn’t just pipers and I was attracted by the list of performers which included Dezi Donnelly, Mike McGoldrick and Peter Carberry along with a who’s who of piping and the chance to session with a variety of new musicians. And to visit another country.

I arrived just in time on Friday night for what they called a ‘Hooley’. This involved simultaneous concerts at three venues within the same theatre complex. A great idea and a chance to catch at least bits of every act. Highlights for me were the exquisite combination of box and pipes of Peter Carberry and Padraig McGovern, a great set from Tola Custy, Laoise Kelly and Cormac Breatnach with Tiarnan O Duinnchinn guesting and of course Dezi Donnelly, Mike McGoldrick and John Joe Kelly. Electrifying!

The remainder of the weekend involved a fiddle workshop (of course) with Tola Custy who was in great form and then sessions in cafes and pubs and an Uillean Pipe concert in the Cathedral and well, more sessions. The Cathedral was a fantastic venue for the pipe concert, though the night was cold and many of the pipers had trouble with their tuning. This aside two and a half hours of pipes was a little too much for me though there is no doubting the quality of the music.

On Sunday morning I needed a break and took a drive to Dungarvan and the through the Armagh countryside. Much more ‘English’ than Clare with grand homes, very ordered fields and the last vestiges of autumn colours appearing on the nearly bare trees. It was on the way back that I came into contact (nearly literally) with Road Bowls. I will blog on this separately, but it was a great insight into a pastime that I am told is mainly practiced here in Armagh and in Cork.

Back to town for the best sessions of the weekend. At Turner’s I joined the McCusker family, three sisters (Brenda, Marlene and Donna) and brother Paddy playing fiddle, concertina, box and guitar. They are from near Armagh and Brenda told me that there were two other musical siblings in Belfast and Australia! And that between them they have 19 children, most of whom are learning trad instruments. Wow! What a musical dynasty developing here. I am seeing this all over Ireland and it is just tremendous for the future of Irish music. This session was a treat for me and the other visiting musicians which included four pipers (naturally). After this folded I was privileged to join a session in the same pub with Tiarnan O Duinnchinn on pipes and fiddler Danny Diamond among others. This was the icing on the cake for a fabulous afternoon of music but I had to drag myself away for the long drive back to Caherush – getting home at 1 am.

After what started out fairly indifferently for me, turned out to be a fabulous weekend. Now I definitely need a rest!

Categories: Festivals, Trad Irish Music | Tags: Armagh, Clare, Ennis Trad 21, Festival, Ireland, Irish music, music, Northern Ireland, photography, pipes, Sessions, traditional music, travel, uillean pipes, William Kennedy | Leave a comment

Ennis Trad 21 – My Thoughts

Posted on November 18, 2014 by singersong

It’s been a week since it ended and I have had a bit of time to collect my thoughts. I’ve said before what a great Festival it was, as have many others, but I have tried to identify what it is that made it so special for me.

This is not going to be a review – others have spoken of the fantastic concerts by the headline acts Steve Cooney and Seamus Begley, Tradivarious and Lumiere, of the smaller concerts given during CD and book launches with Richie Dwyer, the Boruma trio, the boys from Monaghan with the Dear Dark Mountain and Tara Breen’s new band being highlights, of the TradDisco and the Riches of Clare and of the wonderful and eclectic sessions that were happening everywhere.

This is my first Trad Fest and ever since I arrived in Ireland in May for the Fleadh Nua, everyone was telling me “Oh, you need to go to Ennis Trad Fest”. So expectations were high. I have been to 20 Festivals in the last six months – so I think I am in a position to see what has worked and what hasn’t. I am going to generalise here but for me the larger Festivals such as Willie Week and the Sligo Fleadh Ceoil didn’t always deliver. They were great experiences, from a cultural and musical perspective, but accessing sessions was a real challenge and some of the carry-on of the participants marred the experience. By and large I enjoyed more the smaller festivals such as Feakle, Tulla and Moyasta as it was easier (it’s all relative) to get a seat at the table and so much easier to meet people. The Summer Schools such as Drumshanbo, Tubbercurry and Achill were different again. Drumshanbo with its hot weather attracted great musicians and sessions spilled out onto the streets while at Achill it was hard to find a session as there were very few participants other than the students and tutors (but what a location). So when people ask me “which was the best?” I just can’t answer it . It sounds like a cop-out but they all had something such that I went away happy.

So Ennis Trad 21 sits somewhere in between Miltown and Feakle in size but it had a very different vibe. It was like a family reunion in some ways. Many people are return visitors and only come to this festival. It is popular with both locals and visitors some of whom have been coming for years. So it needs to be said that despite the much publicised difficulties of the past couple of years the spirit of the festival is rooted in a successful formula that started over twenty years ago and that the current organisers appear not to have dabbled with. A few changes around the edges but it is still the same festival that brings people back year after year. The current organisers are to be congratulated for this and so too should the organisers and committees of past years who have built up the ‘brand’ so to speak. It is worth noting that the place was pretty much booked out before it was even confirmed that the festival would go ahead. That doesn’t happen by chance.

For me the fact that this was a ‘special’ festival was apparent from the very first session on Thursday to the last note played on Monday night. In my short time here in Ireland I have made many musical friends and this Festival made me realise how important that is to enjoying the musical experience to the fullest. A music festival is not just about the music you hear or make but how you fill the spaces between the music. There was such a sense of goodwill and around the place that it was so easy to make new friends and aside from the much spoken about issues at the Cooney/Begley concert (wrong location perhaps?) there was not the negative influence of the, shall we say, over-excited crowds of visitors seeking a different kind of craic, that was a feature of Miltown.

This was a musicians’ festival. Up to twenty session venues many happening at the same time so no lack of choice. But Festivals require listeners and there were plenty of those and for the most part respectful. The town was buzzing and the Festival created a positive feeling everywhere around the place. Cafes, and shops were doing a thriving business.

There were so many highlights I can’t begin to mention them but one of the striking features for me was the accessibility of the musicians. I met Steve Cooney! A bit of an Aussie legend and it is a little hard not to be a bit star struck. But it wasn’t just about the big names. I so enjoyed playing music and the friendship of the wonderful musicians many of whom call Ennis and Clare home and it confirmed in spades my decision to base myself here. For me the session that encapsulated the whole experience was in Kelly’s Bar with Clare musical ‘royalty’ Andrew MacNamara, Joan Hanrahan, Brid O’Gorman, Eamon Cotter and Geraldine Cotter and an assortment of visiting players from Germany, Belgium, France, UK, Spain and even Australia and who knows where else playing some of the best Irish music you will ever hear. It had everything.

Those of you following me on this blog will have seen some posts of photos from the various days. I will repost just a few of my favourite shots here that I think capture the essence of the festival. They are not necessarily of famous musicians but of people having a good time. This for me was Ennis Trad 21.

See you next year.

Categories: Festivals, Trad Irish Music | Tags: Clare, Ennis, Ennis Trad 21, Festival, Ireland, Irish music, music, photography, Sessions, traditional music, travel | Leave a comment

Ennis Trad 21 Days 1 and 2

Posted on November 18, 2014 by singersong

Just catching up on some posts. Here are some of my photos from Days 1 and 2. Most I have already posted to Facebook though there are a couple of new ones.

Categories: Festivals, Trad Irish Music | Tags: Clare, Ennis, Ennis Trad 21, Festival, Ireland, Irish music, music, photography, Sessions, traditional music, travel | Leave a comment

Ennis Trad Fest Day 5

Posted on November 11, 2014 by singersong

It’s over. That was some Festival. I have been to 18 Festivals and Schools in the last six months and I really have to say this was right up there. I will blog on this in more detail some other time but for the moment let me congratulate the Committee for carrying it off and for fulfilling the expectations of the many who have travelled from all parts of Clare, the rest of Ireland and the globe to be at this Festival which over the years has cemented a special place in the Irish Music calendar. Here are a few photos from Day 5. I will repost Days 1 and 2 soon, as I only put them up on Facebook. See you next year!

Categories: Festivals, Trad Irish Music | Tags: Clare, Ennis, Ennis Trad 21, Festival, Ireland, Irish music, music, photography, Sessions, Trad Fest 21, traditional music, travel | Leave a comment

Ennis Trad 21 Day 4

Posted on November 10, 2014 by singersong

Here is a selection of images from Day 4. Please share if you want to.

Categories: Festivals, Trad Irish Music, Uncategorized | Tags: Clare, Ennis, Ennis Trad 21, Festival, Ireland, Irish music, photography, Sessions, traditional music, travel | 1 Comment

Joe Cooley and Willie Keane Weekends

Posted on October 29, 2014 by singersong

This is why I am in Ireland!

But I did have a dilemma this last weekend . It was October Bank Holiday weekend and there were two Festivals within striking distance. Solution – go to both.

So Saturday I headed off to the Joe Cooley Weekend at Gort about an hour’s drive from Caherush. Gort is just over the border in Co Galway and a pretty town it is. There is a magnificent monastic ruin just down the road and the home of Lady Gregory nearby. The streets are unusually wide and it is situated around a spacious square with a number of pubs, all within a quick jog of each other. Necessary to avoid the wind and the rain! A perfect place for a Festival.

Where do you start when you arrive at 1:00 pm? Well you park the car and you wind the window down and listen and within moments you hear the strain of fiddles and accordions coming from inside O’Donnell’s Pub. So with my travelling companions, Danny and Nicolle, we headed in and immediately the circle widened to accommodate us. This doesn’t always happen and when it does you know you are in for a good session. It was led by box player Jim, who I am sure is the happiest man in Ireland, smiling and whooping his way through tune after tune and engaging all and sundry in continuous banter, and there were some older players and a good smattering of the next generation. So the music was a great mix and at a good pace. Plates of toasted ham cheese and tomato sandwiches kept arriving and even a special ‘order’ for vegetarian, Nicolle!

Around 3:00 we headed off to Sullivan’s Hotel for the highlight of the programme. This was the attempt on the Guinness World Record for the Largest Irish Band. The record is something around 270 held by nearby Kilfenora in Clare and only set earlier this year. There was palpable excitement as scores of musicians gathered outside the ballroom with their whistles, fiddles, banjos and pipes. Even a cahone (does that count?). Fevered last minute run-throughs of the chosen tunes created a somehow engaging dissonance, much as the expectation created by an orchestra tuning up. There was sheet music for those unsure of how the polkas went.

We all filed in shepherded by hi-vis vested marshals who almost outnumbered us, to take our places in rows of seats laid out for us. It looked like they were expecting around 300. There were cameras and videos including Irish TV there to record the event. Initially there was optimism but as the queues diminished and only half the seats were filled it became apparent to all that this was not to be the day. The scheduled start time of 4.00 pm went, perhaps in an attempt to scour the pubs for more musicians, and finally, it was after 4.30 when an excited announcer surprisingly proclaimed over the microphone “Congratulations! You have broken the record!” Looking at the empty seats I was a bit confused. “The largest Irish band in Connacht!”. There was excited applause as the crowd basked in the glory of being an ‘almost-Guiness World Record’ holder. To confirm the record we of course had to play and after a run through off we went launching into Maggie in the Woods. The sound was fantastic and it was actually quite thrilling to play with such a large ensemble, roughly in time and close enough to being in tune. There was genuine enthusiasm in the playing and in the reception from the assembled crowd, many of them proud parents. Then there were more tunes (not rehearsed!) and even a set dance. Was this the world record for the biggest Ceili Band playing to a set dance? Perhaps just in Connacht! Anyway it was all great crack and we queued up again on the way out to get a certificate to record the Attempt. There’s always next year!

The search resumed for the ‘killer’ session. So back to O’Donnelly’s where there was a new crowd of musicians but equally welcoming and then to Johnny Ward’s. This session was in a separate room with no bar and was as close to a house session as you could get. It was unfortunately marred by an extremely drunk bodhran player, with a Walton’s instrument and while it had a lovely celtic design the music did not match as he proceeded to beat it mercilessly and a whistle player who certainly made his presence felt. I watched as this man, already finding it hard to stand up demolished his next Guinness in two swigs. Despite these ‘distractions’ which contributed to a sometimes messy sound there were moments of absolute magic in the music. Concertina player, Patrick and a couple of box players and a banjo drove the session and I provided the only fiddle – an unusual event. Tunes were played fast but with a real skip which gave the music a lovely rhythmic lift. It was absolutely fantastic to play along with. After this session fizzled and a plate of Taco Chips from Supermac’s there was another great session at Sullivan’s populated mainly by Galway musicians and three hours went so quickly as we cycled through a familiar array of reels and jigs. Bed was very welcome at 3:00am after close to 12 hours of playing.

Sunday morning arrived, with all good intentions to head to the Willie Keane Weekend at Doonbeg (about ten minutes drive to the south of Caherush) in time for the Trad Breakfast, I have to admit the late night proved too much of a barrier and I didn’t get there until 2pm! There was music in four pubs on the main street of the village, famous more for the Donald Trump Resort a couple of kilometres out of town than anything else. But this weekend it was all about the music. Some of the best music you will hear and most of it coming from the unsung and the unheralded. Highlights for me included:

A wonderful set from Tony Linanne and Padraig Mac Doncha (in an Eb session) at Madigan’s, the brilliance of Andrew MacNamara and Mark Donnelly, the surprise packet that was Scaradaragh (a group of Sliabh Luachra musicians from North Cork), just so much fun to play with – bring on those polkas!, the brilliance of the young musicians from Tulla and Kilmaley (Amy & Gearoid McNamara and Yvonne & Pamela Queally, joined by friends including the Murphy sisters from Dublin) and then a great exhibition of sean nos dancing to wind up Sunday night.

On my way home after a fabulous day, I popped into the bar at Tubridy’s to the sight of a table of well primed revellers enjoying the music of Roisin & Conor Broderick and Deirdre Winrow. One of them saw me come in with my fiddle on my back and yelled. “Here he is. I have been reading about you” Taken off guard I asked what she meant. “In the brochure – you’re the fiddler!” They then engaged me in a random conversation in which it became apparent they were down from London for a weekend of golf at the Trump Resort. Luckily they didn’t stay long and on her way out I asked the girl what she meant. She explained that it was me in the programme as a “fiddler’ from 10pm and they were waiting for me. I looked to the corner where Dierdre was quite expertly pumping out a reel on her fiddle and pointed out “but there’s already a fiddler here.” “No” she said in all seriousness “that’s a violinist!” And she retreated with her companions to their five star room in the Lodge at Trumps…..

One other quick anecdote. Sitting, engrossed in my playing at the Igoe Inn (great name!) I felt a hand on my shoulder and a whisper in my ear. “Kevin Crawford” was all she said. I looked around to see a middle aged lady standing over me. “What about him?” I whispered back. [Kevin, of course, is the well know flute player from Lunasa]. “Is he here?” she said seriously. “I haven’t seen him”, was all I could think to say and apparently satisfied she wandered off. I later found out she had done this with every musician in the place! He should be very pleased he has such a devoted fan.

Anyway, home by 1.00 am after another ten hours of almost continuous sessioning on top of the previous day. So I think I put in a good shift. A quiet couple of weeks now but really looking forward to the Ennis Festival coming up. Stay tuned.

Here are some pictures from the weekend. …….

Registering for the World Record Attempt

Toasted Cheese and Tomato Sandwich

Danny and Nicolle lead a session

Optimism

Last Minute Practice

Filling up

Expectancy

The biggest Irish Band in Connaught!

Mick Minogue on his ancient goatskin

Session at Johnny Walsh’s Gort

Session at Sullivan’s in Gort

Alice from Galway via Australia

Danny from Australia

fingers

I was there!

Tony Linanne and friends, Doonbeg

Session at Igoe Inn, Doonbeg

Sliabh Luhraca comes to Clare.

Andrew MacNamara and friends, Doonbeg

Igoe Inn

Great craic

Categories: Festivals, Trad Irish Music | Tags: Clare, Doonbeg, Festival, Galway, Gort, Ireland, Irish music, Joe Cooley, music, photography, Sessions, traditional music, travel, Willie Keane | Leave a comment

Home

Posted on October 21, 2014 by singersong

Well it has been a month since I have posted and a lot has happened. I have kept telling myself I will catch up when winter arrives but it never did. We have had an amazing warm September and the first couple of weeks of October with more blue skies. That all camne to an end last week and we have had our first taste of winter. I am ready for it!

Those of you following me on Facebook will know that I have found a house to rent. I can’t believe where I have ended up. A magic place on the water between Spanish Point and Quilty near Miltown Malbay in west Clare.

My cottage is at the end of a row of houses that stretches along the Clogher Road to Point Caherush. It is situated on the edge of the land where it meets the rocky shore. Surrounded by gravel and a high wall there is no softening green garden but the starkness somehow seems appropriate. Adjacent is an old whitewashed stone shed with a slate roof and behind that are large domed sheds that constitute the operations base for my landlord’s extensive farmland, which stretches beyond in all directions to the sea. Everyone here talks about nothing but the storms last January and the damage done by the high tides, but I am assured by the owner that the new seawall will keep the ocean out.

The house looks directly south across a shallow bay and to the treeless plains and hills that are so characteristic of this part of West Clare. In the distance I can see Quilty and the round tower of its church poking above the horizon. And out beyond the now calm ocean is the uninhabited Mutton Island only accessible by boat. I have a table and benches, like those provided at picnic sites, outside my front door and from here I can see the sun rise over the hills to my left and watch it all the way to where it disappears into the Atlantic Ocean on the right. The last month has provided glorious clear blue skies and amazing sunrises and sunsets. For most of the day the sun streams invitingly into the house filling it with light.

The bay is forever changing moods. At low tide the ocean floor is exposed across its entire width. Rocks and seaweed predominate with pools of water left behind temporarily. It is not what is conventionally regarded as appealing. At high tide the rocks are completely covered and though there is no pristine white sandy beach, just boulders and kelp and various flotsam bordering the calm waters, the scene has a raw beauty that is captivating. There are very few people. Occasionally I will see someone collecting periwinkles or the landlord’s brother collecting and drying seaweed for his business or the occasional walker or a mother pushing a pram but for the most part there are just the sea birds, which provide plenty of movement and interest and there is Valdo, the neighbour’s border collie who spends all day chasing them.

Just a handful of steps and I am on a rock platform that stretches along the northern side of the bay to the end of the point. The rocks dip largely to the south at about 20 degrees and the sandstone and shale layers provide a series of steps which one seems to be forever climbing. At low tide you can walk all the way around the point. At the end of the point the calmness of the bay gives way to breakers which hint at the power that the Atlantic can unleash. For now though it is has been mostly peaceful but I have had a little taste of its power last weekend. There are some spectacular folds in the rock layers and the dip changes from the south to the north and back to the south providing plenty of geological interest. If I walk the other way I walk across the boulders and weed best negotiated at high tide. There is an exposed layer of peat just above the high tide mark. It provides a fascinating insight into the formation of this unique part of the Irish landscape as abundant, partially decomposed trees, branches and roots protrude from the ground. Further round the point towards Quilty is a cliff face formed of jagged, loosely consolidated boulders that appears to be a glacial moraine and the weathering of this cliff contributes to the mix of irregular and rounded boulders seen on the shore.

I am seeing it at its absolute best but I already love this place. It is not the Ireland I expected to live in but I finally have a sense of place and I am so looking forward to spending the next year here.

To cap all this off the house has a rich musical heritage. It was the home of JC Talty, who played pipes and flute with the Tulla Ceili Band for 35 years, until his death in 2006. He was mates with Willie Clancy, Paddy Canny and Leo Rowsome among others. It is inspiring to think that these guys may well have played music in this house. It was also a favourite place for his niece Brid O’Donoghue the well-known Miltown whistler who came here after school regularly to learn her craft from her uncle.

As I said the place has many moods. I have tried to capture this with some of these photos from my first month here.

I will soon get to posting some of my thoughts and adventures from a truly wonderful summer.

Categories: My Journey, Wild Ireland | Tags: Caherush, Clare, Ireland, Irish music, Miltown Malbay, photography, Quilty, Spanish Point, traditional music, travel, West Clare | 3 Comments

The Crotty Galvin Music Weekend

Posted on September 10, 2014 by singersong

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Last weekend I headed out to Moyasta for the Crotty Galvin Traditional Music weekend. It’s a mouthful I know and I don’t blame you if you dont know where Moyasta is. I didn’t. Head out to Kilrush on the south western tip of Clare and a few miles further on you’ll find it. But dont blink. There’s one pub and a school.

I have been to many festivals this year (small and big) but nothing really prepared me for Moyasta. Everything happened in Garrihy’s Bar. There were two session locations in the front bar and for much of the weekend there was continuous music in one or both. In fact in the time I was there the music only stopped for the All Ireland Hurling final. (For the record it was a breathtaking draw between Kilkenny and Tipperary that had the nation captivated). In the back was a large cavernous room with a small stage in the corner. There were continuous events there including more formal miked up sessions, ad hoc concerts and dancing. There didn’t appear to be a fixed programme and things just happened.

On the Saturday I played in the front bar from 4pm until I called it quits at 1230, That’s 8 ½ hours pretty much without a break. It went on to the small hours I believe. The session (or ‘sessiun’ as they call it in this part of the world) had a peculiar dynamic to it and as people came and went it ebbed and flowed sometimes the music being absolutely brilliant and at other times delightfully messy. It was a pleasure to play there although the pub got noisy and at times you could hardly hear yourself no one seemed to mind. Even the out of time bodhran playing was tolerated!

This was as close to an authentic rural Irish festival I have seen and as far from the Fleadh Ceoil as you could possibly get. One venue, so you missed nothing. Not a hint of commercialism. Just good honest craic. No big imported names and predominantly just locals from West Clare. There were drinks on the house for the musicians and an endless supply of delicious sandwiches, not just for the players but for the punters too, all coordinated by an amazing hard working committee. It had the feel of one big old fashioned house party where even the gate crashers were invited in.

Thanks to everyone who made me feel so welcome and to the many new friends I made. A definite for next year. The battery went dead on the camera so only a few pics but I’m sure you’ll get the feeling for the weekend from these.