Posts Tagged With: travel

Irish Celebration. Music at the Heart of it.

Posted on November 28, 2015 by singersong

Maybe I live in an unreal world but I went to two events in the past week which have highlighted for me the hugely important place traditional Irish music has at the centre of Irish culture and celebration.

One was a funeral and one was a birthday party.

For a birthday party fair enough, but you may think ‘celebration’ is a strange choice of word for a funeral. Let me try and explain.

All of Ennis and the broader Clare and Irish Music communities were saddened by the untimely death of Dympna O’Sullivan. A noted concertina player and stalwart of the Ennis music scene, I met her briefly and played in a couple of sessions with her last year. You could not fail to like her and to be inspired by her playing. I attended her funeral mass at Lissycasey on Sunday 22^nd November. I had not been to a Funeral in Ireland and, though I knew they were a big part of the Irish fabric, I was unsure what to expect.

What I saw when I arrived was a village choked with cars and the spacious church filled to capacity. Family and friends included many musicians and many brought their instruments. The traditional mass was interspersed with not-so-traditional traditional Irish Music. And it made for a wonderful service at times moving and reverential and then stirring. This brings me back to the ‘celebration’ word. Yes it was truly a celebration of a wonderful joyous musical life and there was no incongruity in the long line of mourners queuing to pay respects to the relatives while friends and fellow musicians played spirited jigs and reels. At least thirty musicians played in the packed church and their contribution made for a unique send off. Later at the graveside a solo accordion player from the village played a haunting air which lingered in the cool crisp winter air. I can’t think of a better way to remember a life.

The other event was a 60^th birthday party for Christy Barry. Christy is one of Ireland’s most respected flute and whistle players. He spent much of his life in the States but for some time has lived back home in County Clare. His birthday party filled the function room in Fitz’s bar in the Hotel Doolin with family coming from all round the world. This was more than a birthday party though. The gathering was an excuse for a mighty session. The word was out and upwards of forty musician friends of Christy’s turned up. The music continued with hardly a break from around 8 until I left at 1.30 am. Christy was at the centre of it driving many of the sets whether he was on the flute, whistle or spoons. At the same time he found the time to welcome and embrace every new arrival. The session ebbed and flowed as musicians came and went. One minute Christy was leading a set with half a dozen whistles and flutes. Then the fiddles took over, including James Cullinan, Joe Rynne, Michael Kelleher and Paul Dooley, and then there was a duet with Christy and John King and then there were forty musicians belting out Lucy Campbell. There were songs interspersed and of course some impromptu dancing. This was true craic. Christy also formally received his delayed Lifetime Achievement Award from the Doolin Folk Festival to rousing applause. A well-deserved accolade.

As I said Irish music was at the centre of both events. This was not a pub session or a concert or something laid on for the tourists but this was real; an integral part of life and living.

I really don’t have the words this time to explain the connection adequately. Maybe these photos from Fitz’s will help. But you have to experience it to understand.

Categories: My Journey, Real Ireland, Stories, Trad Irish Music | Tags: Birthday Party in Ireland, celebration, Christy Barry, Clare, Doolin, Doolin Folk Festival, dympna O'Sullivan, Ennis, Funeral, Funeral in Ireland, Ireland, Irish music, Lissycasey, music, photography, Sessions, traditional music, travel | 1 Comment

Martin Hayes and Dennis Cahill, Kilkee; November 2015 – A Review

Posted on November 14, 2015 by singersong

Winter has arrived on the west coast of Clare. After an unseasonal spell of sunshine and balmy weather, well into the second week of November, the wind from the Atlantic has now brought the rain, sometimes horizontal, and hail and with it the cold air. So situation normal really. But none of that matters. Martin Hayes and Dennis Cahill played at Kilkee on Thursday night 12^th November, about a half hour’s drive away and thanks to fiddling friend Yvonne, who solved my transportation problem, I found myself upstairs in Cultúrlann Sweeney staring with eager anticipation at two empty seats on the bare stage. Kilkee is not on the must-visit venues for international music stars but how lucky West Clare was to have enticed them this time. The theatre is located behind and above the local library and is a terrific space with capacity for 102 lucky patrons. The place was full of people and full of expectation.

I have heard Martin and Dennis a number of times in Australia but never in Ireland and never in such an intimate space. This was the perfect place for their music. You could almost feel it wash gently over us while almost in harmony with the rain and occasional rumble of thunder from outside.

A live performance of Martin and Dennis is truly a captivating, almost mesmerising, experience. He plays long sets which build slowly, generally with an air to start and then through a succession of slower tunes, which may be barn dances or jigs or slow reels, picking up the pace and the intensity, building excitement and usually finishing with feverish reels. An example from the first half started with the slow air, The Lark in the Clear Air and then a jig from Peter O’Laughlin (the name of which I missed) to Micho Russel’s version of The Boy in the Gap, which as Martin explained has had all the unnecessary notes stripped out, then Charlie Lennon’s Road to Cashel and finishing with Toss the Feathers and a truly wild, Wild Irishman.

All the way Dennis’ inspired accompaniment enhances the journey. He assists in creating texture and sometimes filling space and other times creating it. Always with great sensitivity. Less is more with Dennis and his ability to create mood and anticipation with a single chord or even one note and also to drive the tunes with a pulsating beat is extraordinary. At times you are not even aware he is playing as he just reinforces the internal rhythm that Martin’s virtuosic playing engenders.

I attended a workshop with Martin earlier this year at Feakle Festival and it was an experience I will treasure. His knowledge and understanding of the music is deep and he was more than willing to share his insights. I was particularly taken with the way he explained how he finds what he terms the ‘groove’. This was in ample evidence this night with both Martin’s feet moving in perfect synchronicity and creating an almost percussive base to the music. All the time his body sways and moves as the music appears to take him over. In contrast Dennis is a model of intense concentration. They sit angled toward each other and their eyes hardly ever leave each other reinforcing the extraordinary musical connection. Martin even joked about it on stage calling it telepathy. Indeed Martin announced what tunes he will do and then promptly does something else and unfazed, Dennis is there.

There were many familiar tunes to those aware of Martin’s body of work. It was especially exciting for me to see the links many of these have to Clare and to hear of the players that influenced him such as his father and Micho Russell and Patrick Creagh.

Martin was in a relaxed mood engaging the audience in a conversation, at times the sort of interchange you might have in the front bar of Peppers, in Feakle, between tunes. I loved his explanation as to how he ended up as a musician working for tough man Johnny Moloney from Carrigaholt which convinced him there was a better life. Dennis was quite happy to let Martin be the front man.

Audience response was vigourous. Excited cheers rang out after each number almost as a collective release of breath, which the audience held throughout the set. Perhaps the sound of breathing would put them off their music?

The lonesome touch that Martin is of course famous for was there however often his playing was feverish. But there was always that groove, that lilt and the ‘nyah’ in abundance. The playing of both was technically brilliant. Not one wrong note or one note out of place. This was as good as it gets and as a wannabe fiddle player truly an inspirational performance. He is constantly varying in particular with the bowing sometimes getting exquisite tone with just the slightest movement of the horse hair and then using long bows to provide dynamic variation. He is a magician.

A word on the sound. It was so good and so unobtrusive I was never conscious of the fact they were miked up. I really felt I was listening to a truly acoustic performance. That was quite an achievement.

The final set of the night kicked off with one of his signature tunes, Port na bPuca, played with intensity and passion with its invocation of the sounds of the wind and the ocean. This was followed a a haunting slow jig and then into another jig and then seamlessly into Lafferty’s Reel, but typical of Martin, almost unrecognisable at times, as he plays in unfamiliar keys and wanders in and out of the tune, and then another reel and then he brings it back with a slow march with a strong pulsating accompaniment from Dennis, then a slip jig with that lovely rolling rhythm and then he builds it up again into another reel and then into P Joe’s Reel, paying homage to his father, and then into Brendan McMahon’s Reel, an East Clare favourite, which he took into unknown places and then finished with yet another reel which I didn’t recognise, this time displaying full pyrotechnics. The crowd would not let them go and gave a prolonged standing ovation. A breathless Hayes returned for an encore asking what they would like to hear. Names came from all directions: “Sailor’s Bonnet”, “Morning Star”, “Farewell to Miltown”. So that’s what we got and a few others thrown in finishing, of course, with a spirited rendition of the Bucks of Oranmore. Another ten minutes!

And afterwards they mingled in the foyer making one lucky girl’s night by signing her pink fiddle. What’s left to say? A memorable concert that’s for sure.

All I could think of afterwards was that I had better get home and practice.

Categories: Concerts, Trad Irish Music | Tags: Clare, concert, Dennis Cahill, fiddle, Ireland, Irish music, Kilkee, Martin Hayes, music, photography, traditional music, travel | 4 Comments

Ennis Trad Fest 2015 – The Last Three Days

Posted on November 11, 2015 by singersong

I have been remiss. Immersed as I have been in the Ennis Trad Festival I have just not found the time to sort photos and write my thoughts. Now it’s over and I have repaid some of my sleep debt I can give it some attention. Where do I start?

Facebook has been flooded with praise for the Ennis Trad Fest so there is probably little that I can add but as many of my blog followers are not on Facebook I will record my impressions here in my blog. And if you’re bored hearing how good the Festival was then just adopt the Playboy philosophy and skip these words and just look at the pictures. I think you will agree they tell a story just on their own.

As someone who has been to all the major schools and festivals over the last 18 months (and a lot of the minor ones) I am often asked what is my favourite Festival. I have avoided an answer. Really because I have found it almost impossible to answer. I have discussed this before in other blogs. but every Festival gives me something to take away. Indeed I have a love-hate relationship with many Festivals. I can’t stay away yet the session experience is often unsatisfying.

I am reminded of Sydney in 2000 when we staged the Olympic Games . The now disgraced Juan Samaranch proclaimed during the Closing Ceremony “I am proud and happy, to proclaim that you have presented to the world the best Olympic Games ever.” Well for what it’s worth, “Ennis – You have presented the Best Festival I have been to in Ireland”

There I have done it. I’ve said it. The Best Festival in Ireland!

I suppose I should give my reasons. Firstly it is the best location. Ennis in the heart of Clare is the spiritual capital of Irish Traditional music. Ah sure, there’s Donegal and Sligo and Galway and Kerry and I know not everyone will agree but nowhere have I seen music, song and dance so deeply ingrained as part of the culture. It bursts out everywhere, in young and old, in pubs and cafes, among visitors and locals and in players and listeners. So if ever a festival was going to work it was in Ennis. There are heaps of venues. Many of the pubs are widely recognised ‘music pubs’ outside festivals such as Faffa’s, Kelly’s, Brogan’s, Cruises etc and many are large enough to accommodate the inevitable giant festival session. There are hundreds of musicians resident in Ennis and the surrounding villages. While tourists go to Doolin, ‘real’ musicians come to Ennis. It is a mecca for many from overseas, some making it their home.

You can hear all kinds of music in this town. The classic ‘Clare-style’, whatever that is, to the fast, furious and wild. So much choice. In fact why not hold the Fleadh Cheoil here?

Ok so it has everything going for it but of course that’s not enough.. ..

This Festival is a special experience. It delivers on so many levels where the larger Summer Schools and Festivals and the small local ones can’t – It is a musicians festival! Whereas if you go to a Fleadh Cheoil the streets are packed with massive throngs of people. Many families and tourists. And that’s great but walk the streets of Ennis during Trad Fest and you will see crowds, but the great majority of people carry an instrument on their back.

The sessions here are at a different level. The core of each session is usually four musicians but up to 30 may join in. Virtually without exception the music is of the highest quality. Something that cannot be said of Willie week or the Fleadh or Drumshanbo. Yes there are ‘session wreckers’ of course but somehow they don’t seem to destroy the ambience. And you can always move on as there are so many sessions at the same time; scheduled and unscheduled. Just have a look at the pictures and you will see the quality of musicians you can hear.

And my pet hate… pubs so noisy you can’t hear yourself or the fiddler sitting next to you and patrons so disrespectful it becomes unpleasant. Just not a problem here. I love to watch people while I play and there are so often smiles; or listeners with their eyes closed and those chatting do so without disturbing. Yes there is sometimes tension as many don’t understand the unwritten rules around sessions but somehow it works itself out.

I reread my blog from last year and I’m going to repeat what I said then, Not because I am lazy but because what I observed then is confirmed this year and I can’t really add to it.

For me the fact that this was a ‘special’ festival was apparent from the very first session on Thursday to the last note played on Monday night. In my short time here in Ireland I have made many musical friends and this Festival made me realise how important that is to enjoying the musical experience to the fullest. A music festival is not just about the music you hear or make but how you fill the spaces between the music. There was such a sense of goodwill and around the place that it was so easy to make new friends and there was not the negative influence of the, shall we say, over-excited crowds of visitors seeking a different kind of craic, that was a feature of Miltown.

I made heaps of new friends again , John and Maureen from the States, Isabelle from Quebec, a contingent of 25 young musicians from Sweden, Etha from Bali, probably the only fiddle player in Indonesia, Ben from UK, Angela from Germany. And of course renewed contact with many in the real, rather than virtual, world such as Veronika, Steve, Sarah, Clare, John, Jim and Barbara, Tony and the rest of the Festival Family.

I didn’t get to many concerts this time because I wanted to play but I did see Beoga which inspired some of the most creative dancing I have ever seen, and I saw Dermot Byrne and Flo Blancke; beyone sweet! And there were some great music in CD launches – including the wonderful Claire Egan’s first CD.

But for me it was about the sessions. Of course I can only talk about the ones I was at. And you can’t be everywhere. But I have to mention the first with the Lahawns (Andrew MacNamara and Friends) in Ciarans and the last in the front bar of Queens with those still on their feet at 3am on Tuesday morning. In between my musical buttons were pushed by Yvonne Casey and Brid O’Gorman in Cruises, Yvonne and Eoin O’Neill and Damien Werner in Suas. Martin Connolly, Eileen O’Brien and Geraldine Cotter in The Old Ground. Blackie etc in the Diamond, the Clancy sisters in Copper Jug, and some sessions not in the programme such as Monday morning at Queens with a host of international visitors and in the Rowan Tree at 4am on the Saturday morning. And then there was time to let the hair down literally with the legendary Trad Disco and Paddy de los Pamas in Cruises.

It was the right move to get accommodation in Ennis and I really want to thank all those who made this possible for me with my current travelling limitations. Particularly Yvonne and Steve for the lifts in and out, Lorraine for her couch, when all the hotels were full, and the organisers for delivering the Best Festival in Ireland. You have something special here.

I particularly enjoyed photographing this event and I am very happy with some of my images despite my camera playing up and the really high ISO I needed for flashless photography. So here goes…

Farewell and Thanks to Ennis TradFest 2015

The final session at Queens

All too much for some

It starts here.

The Ennis Bard

Part of the International Brigade

Relaxing at Suas Cafe

Kieron, do you really think you can show the master?

Sweet

I love this photo

Part of the Swedish invasion

Tara Howley CD launch

Some running repairs

Bliss

When Quebec meets Ireland

Interpretive Dance 1

Interpretive dance 2

Beyond sweet

there you are Alistair. A serious shot

Categories: Concerts, Festivals, Sessions, Trad Irish Music | Tags: Beoga, Blackie O'Connell, Claire Egan, Clare, concert, dancing, Dermot Byren, Ennis, Ennis Trad Fest, Ennis Trea, Festival, Ireland, Irish music, music, photography, session, Sessions, Siobhan Peoples, traditional music, travel, Yvonne Casey | 2 Comments

Ennis Trad Fest 2015 Day 2

Posted on November 7, 2015 by singersong

Day 2. In full swing now. Sessions kicked off at 430 and by this time I was well in the mood for tunes. I popped in to the piper’s session in Dan O’Connor’s. Now I love the pipes, don’t get me wrong but I love the fiddle more so I continued my search heading to the Old Ground Here was Niamh O’Dea and Anne-Marie McCormack and friends. In the words of an onlooker “lively isn’t it?”

I won’t go into detail of every session but I dropped into a few, playing in most. There was Brogan’s with Carmel O’Dea, Murty Ryan and Seanie McGrath. Knox’s where Hugh Healy and friends were holding court and Martha and Geraldine Clancy in the Copper Jug. Oh and Mickey Kerin’s as a night cap. What a selection.

You have gotta love this Festival. There’s plenty for everyone. If you really want there are enough sessions to get a seat at the table and if you can’t well the quality of the sessions is so good that you are happy to just listen. And many come here just to do that. On Thursday I spotted Martin Hayes soaking up the Lahawns in Ciaran’s and last night I chatted with Daithi Gormley, this year’s All Ireland box champion and Aiofe Cunningham, All Ireland fiddle, just happy to sit in the corner and listen to the eclectic mix of tunes from the Clancy sisters.

This year there seem to be more people. I walked into Fawles and there was an unscheduled session with a dozen players none of whom I reconginsed. There are surprises around every corner. In the Copper Jug I caught up with Dave Garner, from Manchester who I had met in Australia nearly three years ago. A class fiddler. There is a group of young Swedish musicians here as part of a six month course on Irish music in Sweden. And I met lots of old friends and made plenty of new ones; including a lady who must be Indonesia’s only trad Irish fiddle player. She is passionate about the music despite there being no sessions there.

Let’s see what tomorrow brings.

Categories: Festivals, Sessions, Trad Irish Music | Tags: Clare, Ennis, Ennis Trad Fest, Festival, Ireland, Irish music, music, photography, Sessions, traditional music, travel | Leave a comment

Ennis Trad Fest 2015 Day 1

Posted on November 6, 2015 by singersong

Thursday November 5^th. The opening day of the Ennis Trad Fest for 2015. I have decided this year to book a room at the Rowan Tree. To be in the thick of it. Ennis is ripe with anticipation. Like a rehearsal for the Fleadh. There are already sessions in the lounge of the Hostel when I arrive.

By the time the official opening gets underway at the Queen’s Hotel the front bar is packed. Mercifully short speeches from Blackie O’Connell, the Mayor and Ron Kavana who sang his wonderful song ‘Reconciliation’ and we were away. Two CD launches, first by Phillip Duffy and Liam Kelly. I had seen these guys play at Tubbercurry and bought the CD there so I headed off for some tunes. First stop Brogans. With Damien O’Reilly, Caoifhionn Ni Fhrighil and friends. This quickly built up to over twenty musicians. A great taster. Where to next? – the perennial problem. Tonight though I only had to choose between Siobhann Peoples at Faffa’s or the Lahawns. I chose the Lahawns this time – and they took the roof of Ciaran’s Pub. The line up was Andrew MacNamara, Joan Hanrahan, Anne-Marie McCormack, Eileen O’Brien, Jim Corry two pipers plus whoever could find a seat.

From the first chord on the piano the place was hopping. Their music was infectious and they were still going at half one when I left. A quick walk around town and there were sessions popping up everywhere. I spotted Tom Delaney and friends in Dan O’Connells. And way after 2am there were still tunes in the lounge of the Rowan Tree.

This is only day 1. Boy are we in for a cracker!

Categories: Festivals, Sessions, Trad Irish Music | Tags: Blackie O'Connell, Clare, Ennis, Ennis Trad Fest, Festival, Ireland, Irish music, music, photography, Sessions, Siobhan Peoples, Trad Fest, traditional music, travel | Leave a comment

Traid Phicnic Spiddal 2015

Posted on October 17, 2015 by singersong

I know it’s a while ago now but I have been on the go ever since; so before I forget I want to say a few words about the Traid Phicnic held in Spiddal on the weeked before Willie Clancy Week back in early July. I spent two days there this year instead of the three as I had to rush off to Miltown for the chance to meet Tommy Peoples…….

This festival is on the verge of something big. This is my second year there and it seemed to have grown this year with great crowds. An wonderful relaxed family atmosphere exhibiting the real spirit of the Gaeltacht. Blessed this time with sunshine taking full advantage of the spectacular location looking towards the spiritual home of Irish music across Galway Bay to Clare (ha ha).

The festival has a lot going for it. It is a great concept where you can relax on the grass, mingle with musicians, experience wonderful acts and attend amazing sessions in the evenings. There is a wide demographic with families, young and old, locals and people from ‘away’. Bridge Barker and her team have really hit on something here. This Festival will continue to gain momentum. There were three film crews from Irish TV and BBC making documentaries so this can only help. The donation ethos is unique. Pay what you can afford. I haven’t seen this anywhere else but despite Bridge telling me that people were generous, I know how hard she and the committee worked to cover costs.

In addition to the music there are circus acts, workshops, craft activities and it is hard to see where improvements can be made. Also a special mention of the food. A small selection but real quality. I wasn’t going to review this festival but I guess I sort of have.

Anyway it was great to catch up and meet with so many wonderful friendly people, I think more than any other festival what makes this one is the way the musicians mingle with the punters. There is no green room other than the surrounding lawns. You could bump into Steve Cooney, Liam O’Brien, Brid Harper, Charlie Lennon, Tola Custy, Laoise Kelly, Jessie Smith and they will make you feel comfortable. And their was participation at all levels both on and off the stage. Fair play to you Bridge.

Categories: Concerts, Festivals, Sessions, Trad Irish Music | Tags: Bridge Barker, Clare, concert, Festival, Galway, Ireland, Irish music, music, photography, Sessions, Spiddal, trad picnic, traditional music, traid phicnic, travel | 2 Comments

Eoin O’Neill and the Mórglór Award

Posted on October 12, 2015 by singersong

Every now and then something comes along that, for me, reaffirms my raison d’etre for being here in Ireland. Something that underscores and reinforces the creative core of Irish music and gives a window into the Irish psyche. Such an event was the Mórglór concert held on 10^th October in the glor Theatre. The Mórglór award is relatively new and the brainchild of Tim Collins, leader of the Kilfenora Ceili Band among other things, and is presented to an individual or group who have made an outstanding contribution to culture in Clare. It is not so much the concert (and it was fantastic by the way but I will have more to say on that) which made this event outstanding but it was the way it embraced and fired up the local and international community of traditional music followers.

Last year the award was deservedly won by the organisers of the Corofin Festival. The recipient this year was Eoin O’Neill. Eoin is a giant on the Clare music scene. His contribution to music in this county is deep and profound. He has been playing trad, particularly in Doolin and Ennis, since he arrived here from Dublin 35 years ago, playing with many of the greats. He has recorded dozens of CDs both his own collaborations or as a session musician with many of the big names, adding his sometimes subtle, sometimes driving, bouzouki always in tune with the music and always with soul. He has mentored many younger musicians encouraging them to play in public and to record and he has also identified many older musicians ensuring their legacy is preserved. To watch him work a room during a session and bring everyone along with him for the ride is to watch a master communicator and someone who really understands the pull of Irish Music and why people come here. Through his contribution to the ClareFM programme West Wind he has built an enormous international following. It would be difficult to overstate the contribution this has made to Clare’s reputation as the go-to place for Irish Music. This is evidenced by the response to this concert. As soon as it was announced tickets flew out the door even before the line-up was announced. Many of these bookings came from Eoin’s followers all round the world. People came for this concert from Netherlands, Belgium, UK, France, Germany, the US and who knows where else. Many of these are regular attendees of festivals in Clare and many have their strong connection to Clare music through Eoin.

As I say it wasn’t just the concert. What was remarkable was that this award triggered a Festival-like celebration and an almost continuous weekend of traditional music.

On Friday night was a session at PJ Kelly’s with Eoin, Joan Hanrahan and Brid O’Gorman and many visitors. It was hard to get a seat at the table. Kelly’s is one of the great pubs in Clare to listen to and play Irish music and I have written about this before but this night had something extra. Particularly of note was the singing, which soared, with contributions from Noirin Lynch, Willie Cummins, Steve Brown, Job Cornelissen and singers from the bar. A particular highlight for me was when the whole pub joined in with the singing of Red is the Rose.

I might digress here to mention briefly Eoin’s influence on me. I play with Eoin regularly. Musicians that Eoin plays with are the kind of musicians that I enjoy playing with. So he has become a friend. With a dry sense of humour, his mastery of the Irish tradition of slagging, his deep knowledge of music and his strong opinions, which he is only too willing to share, it is a pleasure to spend time in his company. He has tolerated my musical inadequacies with good grace and always made me feel welcome. And recently he has encouraged me to sing more and play guitar even suggesting songs, one of which was Red is the Rose. That night at Kelly’s I understood why.

Saturday afternoon saw visiting musicians gather at Cruises from 2pm to share tunes and stories. I love playing in the afternoon. The pubs are quieter the music somehow seems cleaner and everyone is more relaxed. This turned out to be the case here.

But all this was a precursor to the main event which kicked off at 8pm. The programme had Eoin’s stamp all over it. Mainly a reflection of where he is at now musically, but with clear reference to where he has come from. Ever generous with his time and his words, he paid tribute to Tony Dalton who he acknowledged as his greatest influence on his arrival in Doolin and who broke a 30 year playing hiatus to join Eoin on stage. There were also some of his old sparring partners such as Kevin Griffin, Terry Bingham and Kevin Crawford and among his current collaborators were Yvonne Casey, Joan Hanrahan, Brid O’Gorman, Luka Bloom, Quentin Cooper, Adam Shapiro, Dermot Byrne, Noirin Lynch and Willie Cummins. And surprise packets (though not to me as I was well aware of their talents) were some of his protégés such as concertina player Aiobheann Queally and the sweet, sweet voice of Clara Buetler. It was a complete concert with various combinations of the who’s who of Clare music weaving their tunes and songs through a packed glor theatre. The common thread was Eoin’s ever-present bouzouki and his ever-present sense of humour. The obvious friendship with all of the musicians and, in particular, his long-time colleague Quentin Cooper, binding it all together. The music reached great heights. Luka Bloom put in an excellent set with his more driving contemporary sound being a strong counterpoint to the class traditional music that we had most of the night. This was a gentle reminder that Eoin is not just about trad but has wide musical tastes as evidenced by his eclectic radio show on Sundays where, as was pointed out during the night, you can have Purple Rain followed by Micho Russell. There were many highlights for the night. But for me the biggest buzz is what happens when you put class musicians together who understand each other and enjoy playing together. This was no more in evidence than in the last set where everyone joined in and took the roof off. Ever humble Eoin was somewhat bewildered by the standing ovation which he so clearly deserved.

As is often the way in this town, the concert was only the beginning of the night and many adjourned to the Old Ground where the Guinness flowed along with the music until well after 4am. To his credit Eoin was there until the very end, when I departed, stumbling back to my bed in the Rowan Tree to grab some fitful sleep.

As if that wasn’t enough the Sunday saw the remnants gather at Brogan’s at 1pm for what one would have thought would have been a nice quiet recovery session. But no. The tiredness was evident but the music did not suffer. It was a bit of the old Brogans and it felt good to be part of it.

A wonderful and fitting weekend of celebration for a great man of the music. Comhghairdeas ó chroí le Eoin.

Categories: Concerts, Sessions, Trad Irish Music | Tags: Clare, concert, Dermot Byrne, Doolin, Ennis, Eoin O'Neill, Festival, glor, Ireland, Irish music, Kevin Crawford, Morglor, photography, Sessions, traditional music, travel, Yvonne Casey | 3 Comments

All Ireland Wren Boy Champions!

Posted on September 21, 2015 by singersong

You don’t have to be in Ireland long to become aware of Kilkenny’s dominance of that uniquely Irish sport, hurling. They have been All-Ireland Champions eight of the past ten years. But you may not be aware of the dominance of one West Clare village, in recent times, of another quintessentially Irish pastime – the Wren Boys Competition. That village is Cooraclare, 10 km from Kilrush on the south western tip of the County and they have just returned from the All Ireland Wren Boys Championship in Listowel, Kerry, where they have been crowned for the fifth year in a row. OK, there was only one other team competing but this does not diminish the achievement. You may not even be aware that there was a Wren Boys Competition I wasn’t. But I am now and my participation in the 2015 team makes me a most unlikely All-Ireland champion. Might have to rewrite my CV.

I have participated in a Wren Boys event before and I suggest you head to my blog for a bit more of the background.

https://singersongblog.wordpress.com/2015/01/05/st-stephens-day-and-the-wren-boys/

This story though for me started at the Crotty Galvin Festival weekend in August in the village of Moyasta. I have also blogged on this recently.

https://singersongblog.wordpress.com/2015/09/19/crotty-galvin-weekend-moyasta-2015/

Here I met Grainne, one of the organisers, and she invited me along. Clearly they were short of numbers to have countenanced such a thing but I never refuse an invitation despite in this case knowing absolutely nothing about it. I was told to get myself to Cree and a bus will pick me up at 6pm on the Friday night and drop me back at 6am on Saturday morning. She assured me the craic would be mighty and that was all I needed to know.

A couple of weeks later I am sitting next to Joe Joe Marrinan on a bus headed to the Ferry at Kilimer (with forty others) as he fills me in on some of the history. The competition had been going in Listowel as part of the Harvest Fair for 57 years. Cooraclare’s participation started forty years ago when local identitiy Denis Ledane decided it would be a good idea to take a team there. Interest faded but in 2011 the tradition was revived after 35 years in honour of Joe Joe’s father Marty who died that year. Joe Joe was installed into the prestigious role of King of the Wren. In their first visit to Listowel they won and have not lost since and it is easy to see why.

On the surface it looks a bit ridiculous, dressing up in skirts, silly hats and bright colours and tinsel. (at least there weren’t any bells and sticks a la Morris Dancers) but underneath it is a serious desire to preserve a fading Irish culture. The competition involves each team putting on a 45 minute show incorporating music, singing, set dancing, step dancing, sean nos, storytelling all presented with humour and passion. The team marched through the streets of Listowel, with turf fires burning atop hay forks, to a stage in the centre of the town square, to the strains of the Centenary March and from there on it was a celebration of all things West Clare. Many songs told of West Clare including the eponymous Chapel Gates at Cooraclare (after which the team is named) and this little corner of Kerry certainly knew about the virtues of the Banner County by the end of the night. A highlight was the finale with a lovely rendition of Feet of a Dancer leading in to a simply outstanding display of set dancing.. There were all ages participating with the dancing dominated by youngsters from villages dotted through West Clare, such as Moyasta, Kilrush, Cree, Mullagh as well as Cooraclare. Many of them were All Ireland champions from the recent Fleadh in Sligo and it absolutely shone through. There is no reason not to suppose that Cooraclare will continue to participate in and dominate the Wren Boys competition in the years to come judging by the enthusiasm with which everyone threw themselves into it..

A fantastic session at Foynes in Limerick on the way home and people had to be dragged back to the bus well after 2am. The music continued on the bus with a rousing singing session and the night finished for most people well after 4am as they were dropped off into the West Clare night by our long suffering bus driver.

Thanks to Grainne and Joe Joe and Tony and everyone else for making me feel so welcome. I felt privileged to be part of this tradition and I hope these few photos do it justice.

Categories: Festivals, Real Ireland, Sessions, Stories, Trad Irish Music | Tags: All Ireland, Chapel Gate, Chapel Gate Wren Boys, Clare, concert, Cooraclare, Festival, hurling, Ireland, Irish music, Kerry, Listowel, music, photography, Sessions, traditional music, travel, West Clare, Wren boys | Leave a comment

Crotty Galvin Weekend Moyasta 2015

Posted on September 19, 2015 by singersong

I returned to Garrihy’s Pub in Moyasta in the last week of August 2015. I blogged on this last year and really nothing much has changed.

https://singersongblog.wordpress.com/2014/09/10/the-crotty-galvin-music-weekend/

It benefits from being held in a remote part of West Clare and being off the Festival circuit map. There were quite a few visitors from other counties this time however and if anything the sessions were of better quality. The Sunday afternoon session was particularly memorable. How could it not be with Andrew MacNamara, Eileen O’Brien, Carmel O’Dea, Anna Falkenau, James Culinan, Noel O’Donoghue, Paul Gallagher, Geraldine Cotter and Angela Crotty among others. The workshops were great. A lovely hour for me with Vincent Griffin on the fiddle. All the things I remember from last year were there. Endless supply of sandwiches, enthusiastic punters, dancing and relentless sessions. A really good wind down of the Summer Festival Season. Well done again to the organisers. Just a few photos to tell the story.

Categories: Festivals, Sessions, Trad Irish Music | Tags: Clare, Crotty Galvin, dancing, Galvin, Ireland, Irish music, Moyasta, music, photography, Sessions, traditional music, travel | 1 Comment

Irish Music Summer Schools and Scoil Acla

Posted on August 21, 2015 by singersong

For the last forty years one of the great fixtures of the Irish summer is the Irish traditional music school. There is a now well-worn trail that starts with the Willie Clancy School in Milltown Malbay in the first week of July and then moves to Tubbercurry in South Sligo and then to Drumshanbo in Lietrim and, if you are still up for it, to Achill in the last week of July. And of course you can go on back to Clare to Feakle which is a shortened version and a number of other weekends in late Summer and indeed right through the year. Not everyone goes to them all so I think I am in the rather unique position of having been to each of the big ones twice now.
Each summer school has its own personality and it is meaningless to say which is best because they all deliver something different. They are all structured around five or six days of classes with three hours a day. Tutors are often world class musicians and the classes are nominally graded. I say ‘nominally’ because the grading process is largely fairly haphazard. At some, such as Willie Week, you are auditioned and are placed in a supposedly appropriate class. At others they ask you how many years’ experience you have and base it on that. Some let you choose your tutor. In any case most schools then allow you to change to whichever teacher you want. So it can be fairly random. Not a perfect system and sometimes it can lead to individual frustrations but for the most part it works and I should say that mixing adults and kids doesn’t worry me as the younger ones are often much quicker to pick up tunes.
People go to the schools with different objectives. Many just go to learn tunes – the more the better. And some teachers oblige. Other tutors talk about their approach to the music or focus on technical aspects or rhythm or bowing or some other detail. These are the ones I like most. One school I attended earlier this year in Ballyferriter we had Caoimhín Ó Raghallaigh who worked for the whole workshop on one note, dealing with dynamics, tone and expression. I got so much from that. But on the other hand learning lots of tunes by ear is a great discipline and that’s what I got at Scoil Acla (more later).
First of course was Scoil Samhraidh Willie Clancy set up in 1973 to honour the contribution of the extraordinary piper, Willie Clancy. After a slow start it gathered momentum to become the premium music school in the country with now over 1200 students each year. Fiddle alone attracts 450 students and there are 26 tutors. Right from the start the teachers have been of the highest quality and people come from all over the world to be there. Very quickly it also became a meeting place for musicians and sessions were legendary. Many of the local pubs in Miltown Malbay and surrounding villages have become institutions. Pubs such as Friels, Queeley’s, the Blondes (Cleary’s), Crosses of Anagh, Gleeson’s, McCarthy’s and more. Some of these have unfortunately gone. This model was used for all the other schools which came later and most also attract musicians, listeners, and dancers who are not attending classes. This turns the School into a Festival and there are often concerts, recitals, talks, cd launches and a formal or informal session trail. The quality of sessions at the Schools is highly variable and ranges from messy to brilliant and many of the small villages just do not have enough pubs to accommodate the influx. I will talk about this another time.
For now though I would like to focus on Achill which is actually quite unique as a result of its special location and character .
Achill Island is in the west of Mayo and is just an hour from Westport and easy to reach over a bridge from the mainland. This connection detracts a little from that wonderful feeling of isolation that you get by taking a boat such as to the Arran Islands but once you are there you are ensnared by the charms of the place. It is the perfect location for a Summer School. It is a Gaeltacht and so Irish (the unique Achill dialect) is spoken everywhere, it is starkly scenic in that west coast sort of way. There are hills, lakes, beaches, oh and sheep. Any place that gives right of way to sheep has to be special!
The school in its current incarnation has been going 30 years but actually dates back to 1910 making it one of the oldest in the country. Classes are held in all popular instruments at beginner and advanced level as well as Irish language (Gaelig’ Acla), sean nos singing and dancing, set dancing, creative writing and, believe it or not, one of the most popular classes, basket weaving. Venues are spread out and students worry about how they will get there but they do and miraculously it all works.
The school is run by a dedicated committee of locals, much as a church fete, and as I say you wonder how it all comes together; but it does. I guess they’ve had thirty years to get it right. Just a few people running around madly make it all happen. I didn’t meet everyone on the committee but the few I did such as Diarmid Gielty and Orla and Siobhan McGinty throw themselves into it wholeheartedly. They are involved also in the teaching and bring a personal touch. I saw Orla sit with a young concertina player in a session for at least an hour coaxing and coaching her through the tunes and settling her nerves. This to me was the Spirit of Scoil Acla.
It is a great way to combine music with an holiday. In fact after the daily workshop there are no organised events so depending on the weather you can swim at Keel Beach or Keem Strand, or walk through the deserted village or climb Slievemore or explore the tiny hamlets, or visit megalithic monuments or practice fiddle or sleep. Or meet up with some fellow students for some quiet tunes. Then the challenge of the evening is to find a session. There are only three venues but they are spread out and you do need to plan or have a car. But then you can luck in. You often have to rely on intelligence (I have my network of spies now) so I was lucky with a session of locals including four pipers at Lynagh’s (a tiny one room pub well out of town which fills pretty quickly and when there is a session musicians take up most of the seating!). There is a traditional Bb session at the Wave Crest Hotel (a decaying symbol of former better times for tourists on the Island) led by Mick O’Brien with the likes of Harry Bradley, and a host of other pipers, A session at the Annexe with a packed bar most nights and one memorable night, following a text I received at 1230 am at Geiltys with tunes with Declan Folan, Diarmid Geilty and some world class (sic) dancing from Cormac and Brendan Begley until way after 3 am. One night I even found myself at an Italian themed party at the local hostel with the owner and his family and the extended temporary family of international residents.
But what of the School. I can’t speak for the other classes but I had a week of tutor Liam O’Connor, a powerhouse of a fiddler based in Dublin. We were learning up to four tunes a day, very quickly going through it phrase by phrase and then playing it over and over until it had sunk in. The standard of students was very high so most picked it up quickly. Some didn’t, but no one left the class. For me, I struggled last year but this year I was able to cope and I guess that’s a sign the hard work of the last year is starting to pay off. I loved it. Then there is the traditional students concert, which I also love. An audience of adoring parents and grandparents, phones and cameras trained on the semi trailer bogey as the kids and some adults have their big day up on the stage. It is unique among the schools. Of course being Achill, despite the sunny start a storm swept through on cue, but the music continued unabated. Check out the phot of the little red boot poking out from under the umbrella!
And finally I should also mention the great camaraderie between visitors, musicians, locals, publicans, punters, tutors; everyone is included. Oh and a special thanks to Diarmid for finding my shoulder rest which I lost last year! Who would have thought that twelve months later it would still be sitting behind the bar. And to all the wonderful friends I have made from Germany, France, Spain, Italy, Israel, Japan, Australia and of course every corner of Ireland.
I hope these photos give you something of the Spirit of Scoil Acla and that you will make the effort to get there next year. And thanks to Nuria for the shots with me in them.