McArthur’s Bar Tulla

I mentioned McArthur’s Bar in my recent blog on Tulla. I want to say a few more words on it. This place deserved to be in the late Peter McCarthy’s wonderful book McCarthy’s Bar even though he would have had to stretch the qualifications a bit (If you haven’t read this book it is a must; it is one of the best travel books written on Ireland). I saw the pub during the day and it looked to be just another abandoned building. A peek through the window failed to see any sign of life or even recent use and the weeds growing behind the front window did not look promising. But walking past it at midnight there was a glow of lights through the drawn shades and blurry shadows through the frosted window pane.  And the door was just slightly ajar. A familiar murmur came from behind the door.  The quiet hum you get from a pub pretending to be shut. I went through the door into the narrowest of rooms and it was jam-packed. With my fiddle on my back I could hardly squeeze through the door and then past the throng. I could hear music and I stood there momentarily until someone seeing my fiddle nodded his head towards the back saying “it’s in there”. I made my way through another narrow door into another crowded room. I couldn’t help but notice the floor as I walked up a distinct concrete slope. One can only imagine this being a huge advantage when they hose it out at the end of the day.

The music was getting louder as I reached the back room. It was coming from a bunch of kids most of whom looked under 15. By now it was midnight.  Their parents were watching and lemonades in hand they were producing magic music. I felt like an intruder but was invited to sit in. It was as good a session as any I had been to in Ireland.

This experience showed to me a window into the ‘real’ Ireland. A country that has gone through centuries of struggle and subjugation, indeed attempts to eliminate the Irish music and language, was here thumbing its collective nose at petty authority that says children can’t be in a pub after 9pm. Wonderful.

I said in an earlier post that one needs to “go with the flow” in Ireland. After this experience I should add “if you see an open door go through it”.

 

IMG_6855

McArthur’s Bar in Tulla

IMG_7229

McArthur’s Bar in Tulla at Midnight.

IMG_7234IMG_7236

Categories: Sessions, Stories, Trad Irish Music | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Post navigation

One thought on “McArthur’s Bar Tulla

  1. Tom Giblin

    Ah Mac Arthur’s bar I had the privilege of playing there last summer, I too had the impression it was closed for years until meeting up with Andrew MacNamara who informed me that it didn’t open until about 10:30pm and sure enough I met the owner standing outside having a quick puff outside and he informed me his nephew was opening shortly and so started a very enjoyable nights music.
    Incidentally I met up with Maurice Lennon the next day in Minnouges Bar for more craic 🙂
    all the best for now Bob keep up the good work.
    Tom Giblin.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

Blog at WordPress.com.

%d bloggers like this: